Episode 65 - Routing Dados on Large Carcass Builds, Veneering Solid Stock, Edge Gluing Thin Stock, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
 
Sean
1) Hey guys - Ray here from Ravenwood. I love the podcast and the information it provides!
I’m building a hand tool cabinet and had a quick question about storing hand planes in a plane till. I know conventional wisdom is to store planes on their side to protect the plane iron? How does a plane till change this? Do you guys retract the blade when storing in a till, or is the idea that the angle of the till sufficiently mitigates gravity such that the plane can remain set up?
2) A woodworking podcast that actually has woodworking content! Love your show.
My question deals with routing dados on large carcass builds  by hand.
When placing a straight edge, sometimes the router wants to jump on me and go off line. I tried placing a  straight edge on bottom and then at the top  of router while going in a left to right direction.
Should I be using two straight edges to keep router from veering of line? Or are there other factors such as speed and depth of bit?
Thanks. barriowoodworks
 
Guy
1) Hey guys, first love the podcast! Of course I've learned that I cannot do anything else while listening as I'm constantly having to pause the podcast and write stuff down haha.
My question is about shake/rail and stile doors and drawer fronts. I've made a handful at this point and it seems no matter what I do they never end up flat. They are twisted or just bowed out a bit or something. I try to be as careful as possible during glue up etc, but they just never end perfectly up flat in the end. Is there a good strategy that I just don't know about? I use poplar usually for the rail/stiles and plywood for the inserts - Ephraim
2) I'm new to the world of veneering and would like your advice for my current project.
I'm building a simple hand tool cabinet from rift sawn sapele and would like to accent the door panel and drawer fronts with a contrasting veneer. Most likely, it will be maple.
In my design, there are two banks of drawers. The dimensions of their faces are 3.5" x 6" for the top set, and 4" x 9" for the bottom. Ideally, they will be 5/8" thick.
My plan is to use baltic birch as the substrate for the door panel, but I would like to use solid wood for the drawers.
Given their size, how important is it to have a balancing veneer? If it's not important, should I consider a more stable cut of wood, such as quarter sawn or rift?
Thanks in advance, Justin
 
Huy
1) Picture an oval shape in 2 halves and each edge will have fingers to interlock a center divider which will utilized a divider; shelf on the top and a half oval drawer on the bottom The long edges of the divider will have fingers that will interlock with each half of the oval..
I want to veneer the outside and inside of this oval and will dress the edges with a walnut 1/2" thick edge banding. I am going to acquire some 24" x 96" sheets of walnut veneer. Most have a paper back.
will this veneer work in wrapping the outside and inside of the oval or will the curvature be too tight and cause the veneer to break. If so what would you recommend that may be a better solution.
With a glue up like this what would you recommend for glue?
I do not have a vacuum system or bags I will create a form from MDF to apply the pressure to the inside and outside. I am looking at veneering the insides first while it is still in 2 pieces. Once the 2 halves are together I will veneer the outside.
Any advice on the gluing of the veneer and thoughts on how to apply the pressure for the glue up.
This will probably be the most ambitious project I will be creating which is going to utilize new techniques and building processes I have never done. This design has been in my head for years and I have put it on paper years ago.
2) I was wondering about your ideal way to glue up book matched door panels. For instance, I have a 4/4 board and I’ll resaw it on the bandsaw. These boards will be my boards to make the panel. The thin boards are usually too thin to put in a clamp. My process is to use blue tape and a friction fit. I’ll put the tape on one side then prop it up in the center and put glue in the joint and wiggle it a tad back and forth along the joint then put more blue tape on the other side. I was wondering if you had another method that would be better.
Thank you for taking time out of your busy lives and sharing your knowledge with the community!
 
This episode is sponsored by Maverick Abrasives. Check them out at https://www.maverickabrasives.com